Auschwitz-Birkenau

One of my struggles with travel blogging is trying to accurately put my experiences into words in a way that does them justice. Sure, I can tell stories, but often it seems I can't fully describe the beauty of a given sunset or the awesomeness of a particular piece of architecture. Pictures sometimes help, but still they don't say enough. I want to say, "You just have to see it for yourself to fully appreciate it." That's how I feel about my trip to Auschwitz.

Auschwitz.
Just typing that word gives me goosebumps. We all know a little bit about it with varying levels of understanding what exactly went on there. All I knew about Auschwitz came from history classes (years ago) and Schindler's List (the movie). I knew it was the largest of the concentration camps occupied by Nazi Germany. I knew that a huge number of innocent people died. I knew some additional stories. And still I had no idea what I was in for today.

Our 13-passenger van left the Olowek dormitory at 8:30 this morning for the 3-hour drive to Auschwitz (actually it took 3 and a half hours because our driver got lost at least twice). It was a bumpy ride and most of us slept at least part of the way. I was excited for the opportunity to visit the camps at Auschwitz & Berkenau, but I already knew it would be an emotionally draining day. It's like getting pumped up, knowing perfectly well you'll feel deflated(and depressed) within hours.

An English-speaking tour guide led us through the Auschwitz-I camp first. Auschwitz actually consisted of several camps, and we were able to visit the main two: Auschwitz-I and Auschwitz-II (also know as Birkenau). At Auschwitz-I we walked through several of the buildings, looking at pictures and listening to stories. In the basement of one of the buildings we saw the cells for prisoners who were sent to die. The "dark cells" as they were called were a place where 10 or more prisoners were put in a cramped cell to die, either of starvation or suffocation. Just outside that building was the "wall of death" where prisoners were shot out in the open. The wall is now a monument to those who lost their lives with flowers and memorials lining the base of the wall. As I went over to read some of the memorials, I turned around with my back to the wall and imagined my enemy just feet away, gun pointed at my head. How scared these people must have been. And most of the time they had no idea why they were being executed. Our guide told us that even a slight comment or a misunderstanding or a wrong look could result in execution at the wall of death. No questions asked.

As if that bit weren't depressing enough, we moved on to the gallows where up to 12 people at a time could be killed by hanging. When one prisoner escaped, the repercussions were that 10 prisoners would be executed publicly to prove a point or teach a lesson. One story our guide told us was of a young man (21-years-old) who secretly wrote letters to his mother. He told her in these letters that he had discovered a way to break out of Auschwitz and that he was planning to do it until he discovered that 10 other innocent prisoners would die as a result of his escaping. Ironically, when one of his fellow prisoners did escape, he was one of the 10 hanged to "teach a lesson."

I held myself together pretty well until we got to the exhibits containing personal belongings of the victims. Thousands of suitcases, shoes, combs, pots, and even shoe-polish kits. It was very moving to realize each of those items belonged to someone who was murdered within yards of where I was standing. I completely lost it when I saw the tiny baby clothes and the room that held thousands of children's shoes. So many emotions ran through me then, and I feel them again as I recall the sight. Anger. Disgust. Sadness. Why did this happen? How can people be so awful?

I walked into one of the rooms in the museum...I'd say it was roughly the size of half a basketball court. It was mostly empty with the exception of a few pictures. Along the left side of the wall were glass windows where you could look and see piles of light and dark colored fluffy material. It almost looked like fluffy straw. Our tour guide pointed to the sign.
It was nearly 2 tons of human hair from victims. I almost vomited. And yet I couldn't look away. This image, along with the piles of children's shoes, is one that I will never ever forget.

The main gas chambers and crematoriums were destroyed at the Birkenau camp (by the Nazis to destroy evidence), but one remained at Auschwitz-1. We walked through it and saw where thousands were murdered. The gas chambers used to have fake shower heads to trick the victims into thinking they were simply taking a shower. But instead, the chambers were filled with ZyklonB (some sort of lethal pesticide) and the victims were gassed to death. Disgusting. The bodies were moved to the next room, the crematorium, to be disposed of. Disgusting.

I knew the Holocaust happened. I was never denying that. However, I don't think I realized the magnitude of the horrific event. Seeing first-hand the facilities and learning about the conditions that the victims lived in was really eye-opening. And heartbreaking. I walked the ground where nearly 1.1 million people were killed. I can't comprehend it. So many thoughts are still going through my head, and rather than sort them out now, I'll conclude with a quote...

A quote inside one of the buildings read: "The one who does not remember history is bound to live through it again" (George Santayana). George makes a good point; it's important to learn about our past, but what good does remembering our past do if we don't make any changes? Many countries (and people) still operate and communicate with an "us" vs. "them" framework. Under this model, we are constantly living defensively and trying to prove that we're right and they're wrong. There are definitely better ways of living and communicating, and we need to practice them if we want to create a better world. A world where events like the Holocaust never take place. Alright, alright... I'll get off my soapbox now so I can get to bed. I hope you enjoyed hearing about my trip to Auschwitz and I sincerely hope that one day you'll be able to experience it for yourself. I think everyone should.